For anyone who has never sport climbed before or who wants some tips, keep reading:
This video shows a couple of ways to clip a quickdraw whilst leading.
- Keep the snapgates facing the same way
- Clip the loose end of the quickdraw to the bolt/gear and the fixed end (the end with the rubber on it) to the rope
- Clip with the gates facing the opposite way to the direction you travel in (e.g. heading left, clip quickdraw with gate facing right)
- Watch out for z-clipping (middle picture)
- Watch out for back-clipping (right hand picture)
What do you do at the top of a sport climb?
Sometimes people end up getting to the top of a climb and don't know how to get down safely.
This video shows how to lower off from a sport climb.
- Clip a sling (they've used a quickdraw) to the anchor
- Take a bite of rope and push through the ring(s) to tie a figure of 8 on the bite and attach to your harness with a screwgate
- If the rings aren't big enough for your rope tie yourself off before undoing your knot, threading it through the rings and then retying in
- Only put your rope through round rings, not normal bolts so you don't damage your rope
- This can be the most dangerous part of the climb so double check everything you do!
- If someone (or many people) are going to top-rope the route after you, leave two quickdraws at the top so you don't wear the anchor as much.
Here are some typical examples of what you might find at the top of a sport route:
If you want to practice threading a sport anchor, we'll be doing session at the bouldering wall before we go on the Christmas trip. Keep an eye on the facebook page for more details.
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