Getting in a twist: belaying on a multipitch

 

Multipitch routes can seem a bit daunting but they don't have to be! This short video gives a couple of tips for what to do when you are building anchors and belaying on a mulitpitch route.

Key points for building a belay on a multipitch climb (applicable for other belays/anchors):

  • Good contact area for gear

  • IDEAS:

    • Independent pieces of gear (If one anchor fails the other won't be shock loaded)

    • Direction correct (remember lead falls can produce an upward force on the belay)

    • Equal tension (Both anchors equally share the load) 

    • Angles (<90 degrees is good, 90 degrees ok, >90 degrees not ok)

    • Solid (Anchors are reliable)

  • Clip the HMS into the bottom of the rope loops - more room for belay plate on the top of the rope loops

  • Locking off hand is always closest to belay (be ambidextrous)

https://youtu.be/DYTCun48TKs

The BMC and have loads of resources on learning new skills. Check out BMC tv (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/)  for more videos or look on the UKC articles page (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/older.html?category=3) to learn more skills.